7-day climbing the Alpamayo mount

Climbing Alpamayo mount

07 Days / 06 Nights

The most beautiful mountain in the world, one look at the southwest face of Alpamayo and any climber in the world would be interested in attempting to climb this remarkable peak. Wildly fluted faces combine with knife-edge ridges to form one of the most remarkable peaks in the world.

Climbing Alpamayo, at an elevation of 19,512 feet, can be one of the highlights of an alpinist’s career.

Itinerary

Drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashpampa (9000 feet).

This 3 hour drive takes us through beautiful farming communities as we head between the spines of the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca. After organizing our donkeys that will help us to transport our mountain equipment and supplies, we hike with daypacks to Llama Corral (3750 m.), where we camp for the night.

We start trekking, after our breakfast. A fairly short day, about 3 to 4 hours with daypacks. Base camp is made at 4200 meters in a valley at the base of Alpamayo on the opposite side of the route. Base camp is scenic, with greenery, running water and outhouses.

From base camp, the route takes a moraine ridge and crosses rock slabs across the edge of the glacier to reach an area of tent platforms (3 hours). This camping area is very limited and we may opt to climb all the way to Col camp in one day.

The route above moraine camp continues over ice and before a 300 meter snow coloir leads to the col between Alpamayo and nearby Quitaraju (6040 m). This section can sometimes be the most technical and difficult part of the route. After gaining the cold, there is a short descent to reach high camp.

Alpamayo Summit Day

We will depart from camp at 2am and lead to the steep summit wall, which offers 360 meters of fun technical climbing to the summit. Camp in the high Camp.

We will descend today to base camp (4 hours) where our lunch awaits us and in the afternoon time to relax.

We trekked out to Cashapampa and then returned to Huaraz.

Time to relax after climbing and celebrate. Then, return to Huaraz.

What’s included:

Transportation by vehicle to start and from the end of the trek to your city of departure.
Two-man tents including sleeping pads.
Kitchen crew and commissary gear with all meals included.
Bilingual guide on the trek, who will handle the first aid kit.

Not included:

Alcoholic beverages.
Extras.
Tips or taxes.
Sleeping bags, hiking boots and other personal gear.
Insurance and airline tickets (where applicable).
Hotel in Huaraz.

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Important

What to bring?

Backpack with rain shelter.
Sleeping bag.
Clothing for warm and cold climates like a waterproof jacket.
Rain pants and lightweight pants.
Trekking shoes.
Slippers or sandals (for showers).
Woollen or synthetic socks and a sweater.
Long- and short-sleeved polo/T-Shirts.
Rain poncho and a hat.
Sunscreen, insect repellent, disinfecting alcohol and gel, water bottle and sterilizing tablets, toiletries and toilet paper.
Camera (wrapped in plastic bag).
Flashlight and batteries.
Some snacks like chocolate bars and dry fruit.
Original passport, original ISIC student card and extra money in soles.
Since the weather can be very cold and moist, your clothes – once gotten wet – won’t dry at night. So take some clothes to change

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